Another Chapter

Who would have thought when I followed my son to Thailand so he could become a teacher, that I too would become immersed in working with so many Thai students?  Paul introduced me to several Thai ladies who had taken the TEFL course he had just finished, and they told me about their expansive plans to develop a language institute and empower students not only with English language skills, but to prepare and better equip them for the new ASEAN Community business world soon to be a reality.  


By 2015, ten countries in Asia will join forces to develop one vision, one community, one identity.  Thailand, Laos, Vietnam, Cambodia, Myanmar, Malaysia, Indonesia, Singapore, Philippines, and Brunei will form a collective of labor, ideas, economies, language and spirit to work together toward a better tomorrow, and English will be the common language chosen within the ASEAN Economic Community.  The task set out by the Thai government has been to encourage new language skills and business acumen for more of their citizens to prepare them for the future, and my part as a volunteer and teacher with LIFE (Language Institute for Empowerment) has been amazing!  


What an awesome experience; I get to work closely with eager students of all ages who know that their careers and future development will depend on what they learn today. But who knew I would relish becoming a guide and teacher to so many joyful and enthusiastic students?  These students have shown me a tenacity and creativity that I would never have imagined, and I am thrilled to have even the slightest impact on making a difference in their lives.  


I have made so many new friends and colleagues, and am deeply grateful for this opportunity, I wouldn't trade it for the world.  Yet a whole new world is what I have been given.  Whoever said that true happiness was living your passion and following your dreams was right on target, but how could I have imagined that this would ultimately erase and then surpass all the frustrations and prestige I have known in the business world, but it does in spades.  My mind is once again in focus and my body in tune; living simpler and with pleasure in that simplicity is just what the doctor called for!

Small World

Eleven years ago, several internet buddies decided to take a stab at re-establishing a family association which had started during end of 19th century but had not been viable for more than fifty years.  We made a go of it and organized research, databases, web sites and family.  We held several family reunions in Massachusetts where I got to meet many of my internet buddies and "cousins," and amongst the group was Joy Eaton Nemergut and her husband Fred.  Who knew that the next time I would see them would be in Thailand.


As often happens with many cyber-net relationships, very quickly you can establish close personal friendships similar to the penpals of old, but there is a special connection when you also know that you have a common legacy.  Joy has graciously kept in touch with me over the years and when she mentioned that she and Fred would be in Chiang Mai in January, I was delighted.  When they arrived, we planned to meet for dinner, but that was the last decision we would have to make.


To my amazement, the couple Joy and Fred were staying with whom they had met in Boston so many years ago became our ultimate hosts, tour specialists and party planners.  They made arrangements to have me picked up and taken to their beautiful home where I met another extraordinary couple from the US, an educator and his lovely wife, a now retired US State Department employee, who was returning for a visit to her homeland.  How delightful that we were now a group of 7 for dinner.  No one could have anticipated the generous hospitality of our hosts that evening, and the next day I happily accepted an invitation for breakfast and a road trip to their coffee plantation. OMG, is only the beginning description of the fabulous day we were to experience.


Having received his masters in business administration at Harvard, our magnanimous host became invested in the politics of his country upon his return and made great strides towards developing global recognition for Thailand, while maintaining his deep Buddhist beliefs in taking personal responsibility for relieving suffering and giving back to his homeland.  Now, owner of a prosperous jade factory, restaurant, condo buildings, etc., his new ambition, if he does not return to the political arena, is to retire to his mountain retreat and to expand upon and contribute to the villages near his coffee farm, while providing training and education for his workers and their families. He became our tour guide after a beautiful lunch at his home, happily shuttling us around his beloved mountain, showing us "his" Thailand from its quaint villages and exotic jungle beauty, to the expanses of his arabica coffee farm for which he takes great pride and pleasure.  Upon the steep mountain slopes, sheltered in the shade of its dense jungle forestation, his arabica beans grow to perfection, and are harvested and processed by hand by the village inhabitants to note-worthy production of the finest coffee in the world.


I cannot detail the overwhelming feeling of pure beauty, spiritual enrichment, family and country pride we were allowed to witness throughout the day and, upon returning to Chiang Mai, indulged in an awesome dinner and walk through the Night Bazaar to again "feel" the richness of Thai culture and craft.


My thanks to Joy and Fred who shortly after were on their way to South Africa.  A day to truly remember!

View from Doi Suket mountain

Joy Eaton and Fred Nemergut

And the Next Step Is?

It has been two months now since I first arrived in Thailand.  The holidays are over and life is finding a "new" normal.  The biggest changes I find take me back to my years in New York when I walked more, shopped at fresh food markets and found more time to spend with friends and family.  I still help from time to time with restaurant on Riverside and in exchange am learning some Thai cooking, but not enough time to spend enjoying the fruits of our labors.  Business at restaurant has become very busy and so less time for socializing.  It's all good, but miss the relaxed time we used to have.  


Started working on web site for new language institute where my son, Paul, teaches and in return, they have taken me under their wing as they firmly believe that "Mom" is special.  Nice thing to know about Thai culture is that we have value as we get older and it is privilege as well as duty to make "Mom" happy.  So today we worked on web site for a few hours, but spent most of time having lunch at beautiful boutique hotel, meeting new people and visiting large Thai school.  Of course, as I was from America, the teachers asked me to say hello to several classes where the children were learning English, which I was happy to do.  It was amazing the joy and happiness such a simple gesture meant to both teachers and children.  The greatest overall pleasure was to see the shining, excited children who were so pleased to be learning and in school.  


I was very, very impressed with programs, students, teachers and classes which ranged from pre-K to 12th grade.  There were dance classes - both traditional Thai and American line dancing; music classes with animated children gladly singing their little hearts out; classrooms which held perhaps 30 pianos or more, while the owner of the school apologized for the tattered leather on the piano stools; science stations; rooms with perhaps 30 computer/audio/visual set ups; daycare; an olympic size pool for swimming lessons, and so much more.  Today was Wednesday and most students were in their "Scout" uniforms, while teachers and younger students dressed alike to show camaraderie.  The smile never left my face for the hour or more we visited and I hope to have opportunity to come back soon!  What a fabulous day!!!  


And then back to work for a little while with the total gratitude of the wonderful ladies, Tabtim and Sunisa who are principals of the new language institute.  They encouraged me to come back as often as I wanted to help finish web site and volunteer for programs at school.  They have made me feel especially welcome and once again valuable.  I am so happy I came!

So Now What?

I have now been in my new home for just over a week, and one thing I learnt very quickly was to slow down, to take things easy and not to worry. There is a Thai saying 'mai pen rai ' (my pen rye) which means no worries/never mind. Most people are used to working under a deadline, to rush here and there and scatter about before going on to do this or that, but in Thailand everything moves slowly -- like moving underwater: 'If it doesn't happen, don't worry, there's still time' -- 'Mai pen rai!'  But finally I at least have Internet, so my world exists once more in righteous order.

I do, however, feel like a child visiting an amazing place for the very first time and am almost overwhelmed; I want to lap up everything around me. Beautiful golden temples and sacred protective serpents and figures fill the landscape, and from my bedroom balcony, a temple spire glistens up close and personal.  What an awesome privilege. My townhouse is just at the foot of Doi Suthep mountain which holds the most sacred Wat of all.  Wats are religious centers where people come to revere or pay homage to Buddha -- not to worship him -- but to pay respects to the "teacher." They offer places to give thanks, pray and show appreciation, but they also house students, hold libraries and sacred artifacts, offer solace and comfort to the poor and/or unfortunate, become "rehab" centers and provide joy, hope and peace. 


Sights and sounds abound in my new surroundings from birds singing to roosters crowing in between temple bells and drums beating.  But musn't forget the night clubs and sounds of music; doesn't take much to make people smile here, and music is one universal language.  I still expect to see elephants roaming the streets, but so far they are confined to the parks and zoos.  Transport is by motorbikes (and I do ride--may even get one of my own), tuk tuks (funny little taxis that look like golf carts) or red cars which are small open-air buses which hold about 10 people.  Don't be surprised, however, if you go left before you go right -- after all others have to be somewhere as well, although eventually it all works out.  Traffic can be a nightmare, but the people are friendly, joyful, downright gracious and magnanimous!  And then the incredible food stalls, literally a street cafe with plastic tables and chairs and a sideroad umbrellaed kitchen set up most anywhere. Dinner costs me about a $1.25 if I choose not to cook, which happens often when it is so reasonable.  Last night Paul and I went to a well known restaurant, and for about $20 in total, had a binge festival of fabulous food -- steak, ribs and all the fixings.  Speaking of festivals, just missed the silk festival, but December 15th starts the beer festival -- Lanna Interbriews -- 10 days devoted to beer and it's right across the street from where I live. Shame I'm not a beer drinker -- waiting for the Cosmo Festival!


There is so much to take in. Most are new experiences but some are the same, like the Shell garage or MacDonalds which you see dotted around town just like home.  The more difficult things for me personally are that, like a child, I find myself having to rely on others to show me when and how to go about the basic and 'natural' actions of daily life. The very simplest of things like posting a letter can become an adventure. I recently asked my new landlord how did I get mail and he replied simply, "Oh I have to buy new mailbox -- other one broken, so maybe soon!"  


Many people do know a few words of English and I now know a "few" words in Thai, but communication is still a hit or miss.  Universal, though, is the wai or Thai greeting -- "Sawadee kha!"  It is rather refreshing to see people really acknowledge the person they come across, be it friend or stranger or "farong," a foreignor.  Thank God I have made a few Thai friends who speak English very well, and now rely on them to interpret what is being said, or direct my taxis.  If it wasn't for them, I'd probably end up in Laos.  Still, I often don't know what's going on, what's funny or serious or what people are thinking or saying. It sometimes feels like the world is going on without me. But here I am and that's for real!

One of the most difficult things is to get used to communicating what I need or want. Imagine being in a place where no one understands you and everytime you try to do something, you get a different result. You could feel powerless and frustrated by this or again just say, mai pen rai! Sign language helps, pigeon English and a sense of humor helps, but what could mean a good thing in English may be a bad one in Thai.  Somehow, though, everything comes in good time and, if not, tomorrow is another day!

All in all I am so happy I came and am looking forward to quite an interesting year.

A New Home

Frantically dodging taxis, tuk tuks, etc., one of my new friends took me on motor bike through Chiang Mai about 20 minutes on other side of Old City to see a possible rental near Chiang Mai University.  Ah-h good, I thought, off main street as where I've been staying is like sleeping in the middle of busy turnpike -- trucks, motorcycles, cars all night long -- no wonder they gave me ear plugs.  Anyway, 7-11 on corner which is good for renewing phone minutes and getting snacks -- and what a surprise.  Tucked away on tree lined lot was a small 2 story white-washed town house with a small front yard -- a simple, albeit older, pleasant home.  Already furnished at least what will be good start, the manager told me he will bring in new beds, clean everything, fix anything that needs to be done and I can move in later this week.  Not traditional kitchen, although good basics -- fridge  concrete countertops, microwave, etc.; has traditional Thai kitchen where burner stove is on back porch so food smells don't stay in home and a little place for a 2nd table and chairs -- not too bad.  2 bedrooms, 2 bathrooms -- plenty room for guests.  My son may stay for a few months till he determines where he will work or live ultimately, so this would be comfortable.  If you have cash and passport, the apartment can be yours -- no intense scrutiny, background checks, fingerprints required.  Bargain price and I think I'll take it for 6 months.  Well, that wasn't so hard now was it?  Lol!

A Taste of Thai

Paul and I walked the Sunday market for what seemed to go on forever -- most anything you might ever want or need is available -- just amazing.  We took a break from market wares every few blocks to pop into a temple or Wat complex and I knew I would have to come back for photos as the mix of spiritual and cultural renderings was almost too much to take in - Chiangmai, at nearly 800 years old, has had a very diverse history, and a little piece of old and new is represented.  A few of my favorites are set below.  Sawadee kha!

Not a cultural icon, but towels as elephants -- OMG!

Moat surrounding the Old City

Finally Arrived!

Left Bangkok on Saturday for a brief flight to Chiang Mai.  Used Thai Air and got my first taste of Royal Orchid service; awesome!  Would recommend Thai Air or EVA any day of week.  US could definitely learn something if we'd take the time to bother.


Arrived in Chiang Mai and my first impression was fabulous; smaller, more personable, but nicely laid out and not lacking for anything.  Caught brief glimpses of parks, canals, flowers, birds, temples and the inevitable commerce.  Everything seems to be for sale and gracious hosts most willing to find whatever you need to make you happy for a small token.  Costs are so reasonable it takes a bit getting used to, but have already become fairly adept in dealing with baht.  My son would of course shake his head at my insolence as I inevitably am asking him if this is good or if this works. Lol!  Takes time, however, to adapt to the concept that some people really want very little and are happy for whatever you give -- a few cents, a couple dollars -- just amazing.  Shows our greed to shame!


Have learned quite a few Thai phrases already, but as long as you know the "wai," or traditional greeting which consists of a slight bow, with the palms pressed together in a prayer-like fashion, you are forgiven most -- this can also be used in gratitude or farewell - and is usually accompanied by Sa-wa-dee kha/kup depending on if girl or guy.  Still so much to learn, but am looking forward to it.


My hotel is old and well worn with love and graciousness, but with all amenities anyone could ask for at such reasonable price.  For dinner I ate at hotel restaurant and had fresh shrimp in red curry paste with rice for about 100 baht or $3.23.  Add on a 20 baht tip or .64 and you're good to go.  


Now I have to figure out the phone deal, get a long-term accommodation and take Thai cooking classes.  Can't wait to get started for real!  I think I can do this and am so happy to have the opportunity.  Just amazing!