I have now been in my new home for just over a week, and one thing I learnt very quickly was to slow down, to take things easy and not to worry. There is a Thai saying 'mai pen rai ' (my pen rye) which means no worries/never mind. Most people are used to working under a deadline, to rush here and there and scatter about before going on to do this or that, but in Thailand everything moves slowly -- like moving underwater: 'If it doesn't happen, don't worry, there's still time' -- 'Mai pen rai!' But finally I at least have Internet, so my world exists once more in righteous order.
I do, however, feel like a child visiting an amazing place for the very first time and am almost overwhelmed; I want to lap up everything around me. Beautiful golden temples and sacred protective serpents and figures fill the landscape, and from my bedroom balcony, a temple spire glistens up close and personal. What an awesome privilege. My townhouse is just at the foot of Doi Suthep mountain which holds the most sacred Wat of all. Wats are religious centers where people come to revere or pay homage to Buddha -- not to worship him -- but to pay respects to the "teacher." They offer places to give thanks, pray and show appreciation, but they also house students, hold libraries and sacred artifacts, offer solace and comfort to the poor and/or unfortunate, become "rehab" centers and provide joy, hope and peace.
Sights and sounds abound in my new surroundings from birds singing to roosters crowing in between temple bells and drums beating. But musn't forget the night clubs and sounds of music; doesn't take much to make people smile here, and music is one universal language. I still expect to see elephants roaming the streets, but so far they are confined to the parks and zoos. Transport is by motorbikes (and I do ride--may even get one of my own), tuk tuks (funny little taxis that look like golf carts) or red cars which are small open-air buses which hold about 10 people. Don't be surprised, however, if you go left before you go right -- after all others have to be somewhere as well, although eventually it all works out. Traffic can be a nightmare, but the people are friendly, joyful, downright gracious and magnanimous! And then the incredible food stalls, literally a street cafe with plastic tables and chairs and a sideroad umbrellaed kitchen set up most anywhere. Dinner costs me about a $1.25 if I choose not to cook, which happens often when it is so reasonable. Last night Paul and I went to a well known restaurant, and for about $20 in total, had a binge festival of fabulous food -- steak, ribs and all the fixings. Speaking of festivals, just missed the silk festival, but December 15th starts the beer festival -- Lanna Interbriews -- 10 days devoted to beer and it's right across the street from where I live. Shame I'm not a beer drinker -- waiting for the Cosmo Festival!
There is so much to take in. Most are new experiences but some are the same, like the Shell garage or MacDonalds which you see dotted around town just like home. The more difficult things for me personally are that, like a child, I find myself having to rely on others to show me when and how to go about the basic and 'natural' actions of daily life. The very simplest of things like posting a letter can become an adventure. I recently asked my new landlord how did I get mail and he replied simply, "Oh I have to buy new mailbox -- other one broken, so maybe soon!"
Many people do know a few words of English and I now know a "few" words in Thai, but communication is still a hit or miss. Universal, though, is the wai or Thai greeting -- "Sawadee kha!" It is rather refreshing to see people really acknowledge the person they come across, be it friend or stranger or "farong," a foreignor. Thank God I have made a few Thai friends who speak English very well, and now rely on them to interpret what is being said, or direct my taxis. If it wasn't for them, I'd probably end up in Laos. Still, I often don't know what's going on, what's funny or serious or what people are thinking or saying. It sometimes feels like the world is going on without me. But here I am and that's for real!
One of the most difficult things is to get used to communicating what I need or want. Imagine being in a place where no one understands you and everytime you try to do something, you get a different result. You could feel powerless and frustrated by this or again just say, mai pen rai! Sign language helps, pigeon English and a sense of humor helps, but what could mean a good thing in English may be a bad one in Thai. Somehow, though, everything comes in good time and, if not, tomorrow is another day!
All in all I am so happy I came and am looking forward to quite an interesting year.
